Fluidity and autumnal hues hit Paris menswear week
PARIS – Fluidity graced the menswear catwalks in Paris as fall-winter crescendoed through the weekend, with shows from houses such as Jacquemus and Hermes on Saturday.
Here are some highlights of the day's fall-winter 2020-2021 menswear shows in the French capital.
JACQUEMUS GOES FLUID
Simon Porte Jacquemus, 30, produced a show of soft geometry.
Sections of the silhouette — such as the midriff or the top of thighs — seemed to be visually lopped off in a clever show of shape-play by the French designer.
Elongated legs paired with mushroom-shaped and rounded shoulders at the top. Rounded hats or scarves flattened the head.
Soft wools and cottons ensured comfort, while a sculpted gown in white coffee worn by model-of-the-minute Bella Hadid gave the collection some bite.
HERMES' PURE LINES
“Pure lines form ample shapes and generous proportions,” Hermes said of its beautiful collection by Veronique Nichanian.
With that mantra, Hermes' veteran designer crowned the fall trend for fluid geometry with 45 thoughtful and accomplished looks.
A loose turtleneck in silken dark vanilla fabric, with a streak of black on the collar, rippled gently on the male model.
The flash-of-color theme reappeared as a blue inset on the lapel of a stylish dark-coffee wool coat.
Hermes has become a byword for simple, unpretentious luxury. With panache, Nichanian proved this again in a classy and masculine showing.
BALMAIN'S HEIGHTENED SUBTLETY
Oliver Rousteing took his foot off the extravagance pedal for a more-understated-than-usual collection of tasteful fluid designs for fall.
Autumnal gold, bronzes and khakis graced the display marked by banding across the torso and draping.
Safari jackets and shimmering desert sandals continued the Lawrence of Arabia theme the 33-year-old designer had toyed with in previous seasons.
But the increased subtlety was a nice direction for the house.
ECOLOGY ESCAPES PARIS FASHION
The art of the chic invite is still very much a staple of Paris fashion.
Houses compete to produce the most eye-catching, inventive — and often plain wasteful — show invitations delivered by gas-guzzling courier to each guest’s personal residence.
The little works of art often provide a hint about what the collection has in store.
Louis Vuitton menswear sent out thick packets containing custom clocks for a show about the transitions from boyhood to adulthood. Berluti — the storied shoemaker — sent out blocks of wood while fashion-forward house Etudes sent out metal tags with the show information embossed.
In other countries like in Brazil, fashion invites are often sent by plain old email.
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