LAS VEGAS ā Eighty years ago, the first Las Vegas buffet opened with the $1 western-themed Buckaroo Buffet that offered cold cuts and cheese. Today, visitors can drop $175 on luxury buffets with lobster tail, prime rib and limitless drinks.
The old Las Vegas buffets didnāt make much money, but they allowed people to eat cheaply and quickly, giving them more time to spend their money on the casino floor.
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But the number of buffets has dwindled to around a dozen on the Las Vegas Strip. Many shuttered during the COVID-19 pandemic and elected not to reopen with rising prices.
Before the Carnival World Buffet at the Rio closed in 2020 and was replaced with the Canteen Food Hall, it touted itself as Las Vegasā largest buffet with over 300 international dishes to choose from. It had just about everything you could eat for around $30, said Jim Higgins, a Las Vegas food tour guide.
ARIAās buffet, which stood out in its offering of Indian dishes and fresh-baked naan, also closed for good in 2020 and reopened as the Proper Eats Food Hall. The food hall offers several options, including ramen, sushi and burgers. Last March, the pyramid-shaped Luxorās ancient Egypt-themed buffet closed. It had cost around $32, but many people ate for free with a casino comp.
Many of the city's old-school buffets have been replaced by trendy food halls and pricey celebrity chef-driven restaurants ā and the so-called luxury buffet, making it now an attraction in and of itself. The rise of Las Vegas as a foodie town drove demands for higher quality dining, said Al Mancini, a longtime food journalist in Las Vegas and the creator of a food guide called Neonfest.
Longtime Las Vegas visitors liken the decline of buffets to the disappearance of the 99-cent shrimp cocktail, another iconic offering that had contributed to the cityās reputation as an affordable vacation spot.
āYou wander in, you eat, you stuff your face, and then you stumble on out to a slot machine. Itās just part of the culture, and itās sad to see that change,ā Arizona resident and frequent Las Vegas visitor Ryan Bohac said.
History professor and Las Vegas native Michael Green remembers the days of the $1.99 buffet, where heād pile his plate with fried chicken, corn and desserts. An advertisement for the Old West-themed casino Silver Slipperās buffet painted that picture of plenty with the line āTomorrow the diet, today the great buffet."
The Las Vegas icon
Las Vegas is a city where visitors like to pretend they have more money than they do, and buffets allow people to live like a king, giving them a āvisceral thrillā when loading up a plate with crab legs, Mancini said.
Jeff Gordon, a frequent Las Vegas visitor from California, likes the āgrand spectacleā of the high-end buffets like the Wynnās buffet or the Bacchanal at Caesars Palace, which display mountains of crab legs and elaborate carving stations with prime rib and smoked brisket.
Still, Gordon misses the affordable buffets that were once plentiful.
āItās like going to Costco and buying a $1.50 hot dog,ā Gordon said. āYou may not just buy that $1.50 hot dog, but you may be spending like $150 in Costco and other things that maybe you do need, maybe you donāt need.ā
He thinks the decline in affordable buffets has contributed to the cityās growing reputation as becoming too expensive. Gordon thinks itās hurting tourism as a whole, and discouraging middle-class Americans from visiting.
Locals say buffets have adapted to meet the needs of a city that is constantly changing.
āIt was a great option in its day,ā said Jim Higgins, a Las Vegas food tour guide. āI think the city has just moved on.ā
A luxury experience
āA Las Vegas buffet is an attraction at this point, and youāre going to pay for an attraction,ā he said. āYouāre not going there to get deals.ā
At the Palms' A.Y.C.E Buffet, visitors can pay $80 for endless lobster, shrimp cocktail, sushi, snow crab legs and fresh pasta like lobster mac 'n' cheese. They offer specialty themed nights where hula dancers or mariachi perform. Occasionally a lobster mascot walks around.
Itās almost like a circus, said Marcus OāBrien, the executive chef at Palms Casino Resort.
Mancini said buffets will always be part of some visitorsā Las Vegas experience, and theyāll evolve alongside the restaurant scene around them in order to succeed.
āThe Las Vegas buffet will never die,ā he said.
